I've been feeling the itch to play an MMO, and since I have essentially played all of them at this point, I had to go digging and stumbled on Project Gorgon. It's meant to be old school in the way Ultima Online and Asheron's Call was, which I never played way back in the day because I was a pretty lame excuse of a gamer back in the day.
I'm about 4 hours into it and it's a lot of fun. Not a lot of hand holding. You've got to rely on your experience playing RPGs all your life to know that you need to go into a town and talk to all the NPCs to figure out what the hell you're doing.
I'd say the only negative to the game so far is that the NPC, interactive objects, and player nameplates are all the same white color by default, which makes it nearly impossible to recognize in a town which characters are NPCs and which are players. But that just required a trek into the settings menu so I could configure the colors differently myself, and everything started to feel a lot less bewildering.